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Description
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This hike begins at the traditional
trailhead of the Winner Creek Trail below the Alyeska Tram. For a little
variation, you could park on Crow Pass Road and hike in via the hand
tram. Regardless, the new and improved Upper Winner Creek Trail is a
jewel. It contours the valley along the South side of the creek for
approximately 8 miles of outstanding views and level tread. This trail
starts in the heavy old-growth rainforest, contours up into thinner
hemlock forest and cleared alders, meanders through a delightful
cottonwood alluvial fan, busts out onto an open alpine slope, and climbs
over an alpine pass that will make you feel like you're in the Highlands
of Scotland. The trail continues down the valley to the upper
Twenty-mile River for a pakboat float out to the Seward Highway. It
apparently peters out about a mile from the actual river, so be prepared
for a bushwhack section. I haven't done the float yet so I can't comment
on it, though it gets rave reviews from those who have. The photos look
a bit splashy with some tricky maneuvering ;probably a bit on the
challenging side and definitely on the cold side.
For a nice trip report and photos see: http://www.xcskiracer.com/gallery/06winnercreek
For information on Alpacka Rafts see: http://www.alpackaraft.com/
*****
The following was
emailed by Ross Timm:
My wife, mother-in-law, and I did this trail on Labor Day 2007. The
trail was great except for my complaint below. Bikes seem to be
accelerating erosion in wet areas, so we will see how the USFS reacts.
It is a LONG day hike. We were going at a moderate to slow pace,
although, because we forgot our camera, we did not stop often. It took
us 8+ hours, but that included 20 minutes on top (very windy), thirty
minutes dealing with the situation below, and thirty minutes trying to
get a bull moose off the trail, and finally bushwhacking around it.
My complaint is that
there is one creek crossing up near the alpine tundra line that is quite
dangerous. It can be stepped across, however most stones are under
swirling water, and one false step and you will be stumbling
and/or falling into a glacier fed, fast moving creek with lots of rocks,
and a long ways from the trail head. We ended up getting our feet
wet, since it was safer than trying to make the big steps from marginal
rock footing to marginal rock footing. There are dead trees and some of
the recent built “stairs” within a ¼ mile so I am not sure why the
forest service choose to leave this crossing as an “on your own” one
when they had the chance to fix it!? At the very least they should
now strategically place large flat boulders that will stay above most
water levels. For people who may say “this level of exposure
defines wilderness”, I counter that the Forest Service has
chosen and advertised this as an “improved”, accessible trail with
few obstacles, suitable for families, so they should fix it (perhaps
using some of the lumber from the excessive board walks and stairs in
other areas), or make the dangers clear.
*****
*****
The following was
emailed by Aine Hintz on July 9, 2008:
There are a bunch of downed cottonwoods in the beginning of the river.
We were unprepared for them and we lost our boats. Just make sure
you scout ahead for trees and obstacles in the river. It is bear
country out there and the mosquitoes
are really hungry!!
*****
Added by the Webmaster on August 5, 2009:
Having to be back early the next day, I decided to only backpack in for
3 hours and plant my tent wherever I was at that point. I wound
up going in about 7.5 miles and wound up in paradise!
Once you get out of the wooded part of the trail and into alpine tundra,
the landscape is amazing. Not that the first part of the trail is
bad, far from it. You'll see some small glaciers as you come in
and out of the trees. Depending on the time of year, there's some
amazing fields of fireweed. There are also many cascades and
waterfalls that you'll cross. As mentioned above, the trail is very
well maintained and the stairs in some sections as you slowly head up
above tree line (about mile 3) really helps.
But I'll tell you, when I got into tundra and then a little further on
and saw the glaciers hanging off of Sadie's Knob, I was truly in
heaven. There were waterfalls everywhere, small tarns everywhere,
creeks everywhere,
creeks that headed down rock chasms, small glaciers and as already
mentioned, Sadie's Knob, which has several glaciers wrapping around it
and meeting at the bottom. There was a perfectly flat moraine to put
up my tent on that offered an amazing view of everything. It just
doesn't get any better than this! You can find this ultimate
campsite just before the trail starts descended back down into the
valley.
After dinner, I explored the creek chasm and then went up the huge
moraine that the trail wraps around before descending. It is
filled with multiple small tarns hidden among wind swept spruce and
juniper. On a really hot day, you could snag one of the private
pools for a skinny dip and no one would even know you were there.
Someday, I'll do the entire hike down to Twenty Mile River, but this is
one time I'm glad I was lazy and I recommend leaving your A personality
at home as well.
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Important
Information
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The Forest Service specified sustainable
trail construction with overall moderate grades. But there are quite a
few high stairs, so folks with really bad knees might have a challenge,
particularly coming down. The trail crosses a couple of old
avalanche chutes down low and traverses a long exposed, and potentially
dangerous slope on its upper end. I wouldn't ski this part in snow
unless I was 100% sure there was no avalanche
risk. If you want to do the entire trail and packboat float to the the
Seward Highway, plan on 12-16 hours. You might not want to do it if the
days are short, or you get a really late start.
The trail is open to mountain bikers after the first 3/4 mile.
Strange but true; you are required to walk or carry your bike from the
trailhead to the signs that say bikes allowed. If you plan to bike the
route, you'll be carrying you bike over steps and rocks a lot anyway, so
you won't mind the warm-up. The Forest Service and Alyeska Resort asks
bikers to heed this regulation to avoid running over the slower hikers
using this trail. Keep in mind, mountain bikers can use the hand tram
route and avoid this first section if it just kills them to walk their
bikes.
Added by the Webmaster on August 5, 2009
Be prepared that you
are committed for the first 7-8 miles as there are no places to camp
before then.
Just because this trail is well maintained should not lull you into
feeling you can let your guard down. Please believe me when I say
you are still in backcountry with all the usual hazards.
I agree with Ross. That waterfall crossing is pretty scary.
I think there are a few others that you may need to be extra cautious
and prepare for during and after heavy rains, or early in the season
when much snow is melting.
I have a colleague who volunteers with the Girdwood EMT and I hear many
stories of having to rescue people on the Twenty Mile River who bit off
more than they could chew. Floating out is not as easy as it
sounds. |