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Description
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5/25/03: After finally getting the chance
to do the entire hike, this page has been entirely rewritten.
A friend and I were all set to do the
whole traverse Memorial Day 2001 but there was still a ton of snow and
after 2 miles of serious post
holing on the Cooper Landing side, we hightailed it to Caines Head
instead. Flash forward to Memorial Day 2003 and I finally finished what I started.
This time I started from the Russian River side. The first place
you'll want to make camp is Upper Russian Lake which is 12 miles. Even
though this is already a schlep, you should make the side trip to the
falls even though it will add a couple of miles. The view is worth
the distance. There is very
little elevation gain to get to the Upper Lake and you have hours and hours of sunlight to get
there.
Note: as a day hike to the falls or Lower Russian Lake, the trail is well
maintained and is ideal for disabled, elderly, or very young people.
The rest of the trail has its good points and its bad points.
On the good side, there is some really nice scenery. You'll get
some great views of the Kenai Mountains and Skilak Glacier. The two
lakes are very nice and supposedly good for fishing.
Both lakes have great campsites as well as cabins for rent that
include a rowboat. There is also a cabin available at mile 9. I really
enjoyed camping at Upper Russian Lake. I even got to enjoy an eagle perched very near me while I sipped my morning coffee.
Another big plus is that this is a great trail for mountain
biking. There aren't many places you would have to get off your
bike and walk. With very little elevation gain, a fit person could
actually do the whole trail and then ride the roads back to their
vehicle on the other side (about 40 miles total).
However, between the sights is something less than desired. Half
the time you're under canopy which is not what, in my opinion, Alaska
hiking is about. Although the
trail is well maintained, this means lots of sawed down
trees which I personally find distracting. The forest service is also doing
a moose reclamation project. Subsequently, there are controlled
burned areas of spruce in order to bring back the willow and the
aspen. It is not a pretty sight.
There are two major considerations if you decide to do this trail
mid-June to mid-August: Fisherman and bears. This is one of the
primo spots for salmon. The first 2-3 miles on the Russian River
side will literally be teeming with people and parking will be a
pain. Once you get away from Lower Russian Lake, the people should
start thinning out. But as you get away from the people, then you
better be on the lookout. Bears love salmon too and do not take kindly
to humans who get in their way.
The other side of Upper Russian Lake, heading towards the Cooper
Landing Trailhead has some really nice mountain views as well as some
interesting wetlands and ponds.
Final verdict. If I was a visitor here in the summer, I would
pick someplace else. If I lived here, or I was here in September,
I would do this hike when it was quiet and the fall colors were at their
best.
The following was added on June 7, 2006:
I hiked from the Cooper Landing side to the Upper Lake this past
weekend. The weather was nice and it was a pleasant hike and
camping out. There was much drama on the trail 1/2 mile in as Star
learned that porcupines can really mess you up. I had to pull
about 30 quills out of her leg. Never heard her cry so much! I
don't think she ever imagined that anything on earth could inflict
pain like that. Let's hope she learned her lesson. More drama on
the trail later on when I saw a brown bear and her cub. She looked
right at me but ran off into the woods. You can bet I was making a
lot of noise after that.
The trail has been completely repaired since the flood a few years back
and the going was easy the whole way. However, if I was coming in
and back from only one way, I would choose the Russian River side as
there is more open scenery and less canopy. But as a plus, you'd
probably get more solitude on the Cooper side.
*****
Barb Cary
Submitted the following:
I'm an 18 year resident of the Kenai Peninsula and have hiked the
Russian River/Lakes Trail at least once every summer. It's about
21 miles of good trail and easy walking or biking either direction. It
makes a good long day hike, or a 1- or 2-night backpack trip, depending
on your group's abilities. I find it's best to do this trail early in
June - before the big red runs in the Kenai River and before the Russian
River is opened to salmon fishing. Then there's no crowding at the
trailheads, very few people or bears on the trail, and the vegetation
hasn't grown up so tall that it obscures views. When I did the trail
this June we saw only 2 other hikers
in three days on the trail. The Forest Service has installed new
bear-proof food lockers at all the established campgrounds on the trail.
Etc:
If you do the trail before the Russian
River opens to fishing, there is no fee to enter or park at the Cooper
Landing trailhead in the Russian River Campground.
Webmasters note: I had edited out a line in this description which
went as follows: "An option that was not
mentioned in your description is to hike from the COOPER LAKE Trailhead,
which is at the end of Snug Harbor Road, to the Cooper Landing
Trailhead, which is in the Russian River Campground. (We switched to the
Cooper Lake trailhead after the Resurrection River portion of the trail
was wiped out in the '95 and '02 floods.)". I wrote her telling her
that I had covered it and maybe was she referring to something
else. She emailed me back just after I published the above and I
want to share it with you for it's historical significance and general
interest.
Hi Bill - I probably confused the issue because locals and
"old timers" refer to the trails by different names than many
modern maps do. If you can stand it, here's a history lesson (you may
want to grab a map of the Chugach National Forest to follow this).
Historically, before Cooper Landing, the
Seward Highway, or Sterling Highway existed, the native and goldminers
trail to Hope started in the seaport of Seward. It went up what is now
the Seward Highway and Exit Glacier Road, then up what is now called the
Resurrection River Trail, then over to Upper Russian River and down the
Russian River on what is now called the Russian Lakes Trail, continued
through Cooper Landing (which didn't exist) and over to Hope on today's
Resurrection Pass Trail. It was all one continuous trail from Seward to
Hope, and the entire thing was called The Resurrection Trail. Locals who
learned the trails from old timers still refer all the parts of it as
The Resurrection Trail. The town of Cooper Landing, the Seward, Sterling
Highway, the National Forest and Wildlife Refuges, and the huge Russian
River Campground broke the single trail up into several separate trails
and it was given several names: Resurrection Pass Trail (about 39 miles
Hope to Cooper Landing), Russian Lakes Trails (about 21 miles Cooper
Landing to Cooper Lake), and Resurrection River Trail (about 16 miles
from the Russian Lakes trail to Exit Glacier Road near Seward).
The message I posted was about what is
now officially called the Russian Lakes Trail. Its northern trail head
is in the Russian River Campground in Cooper Landing. It parallels the
Russian River (and therefore is sometimes called the Russian River
Trail) passes lower Russian Lake, passes part of Upper Russian Lake and
continues east towards Cooper Lake where its other trail head is at the
end of Snug Harbor Road by Cooper Lake. Many people incorrectly describe
the Russian Lakes Trail as continuing south down towards Seward along
the Resurrection River (what is now called the Resurrection River Trail)
and the section that goes east to Cooper Lake to be a spur trail off of
it. That's because historically, the section of the trail that goes to
Cooper Lake didn't exist. The 16 mile Resurrection River Trail is
actually now a spur trail off of the Russian Lakes Trail. We used to
regularly hike from Exit Glacier Road to Cooper Landing on the
Resurrection River Trail and Russian Lakes Trail until the Resurrection
River Trail was badly damaged by flooding and tree blow-downs in 1995.
Now we hike Cooper Lake to Cooper Landing.
When I read your descriptions of the
Russian Lakes Trail on your web site, I had a difficult time telling
whether you were talking about the Russian Lakes Trail as going from
Cooper Landing to Cooper Lake, or Cooper Landing to Exit Glacier Road. I
also don't know what you mean by "both sides" of the Russian
River Trail. I also couldn't tell if the writers were saying the severe
damage done to Resurrection River Trail in 1995 was repaired or if they
were talking about the (relatively) minor damage on the Russian Lakes
Trail. I guess we're both confused!
*****
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