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Description
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This is a great hard day hike
for somebody in moderate shape who is not afraid of loose rock and
scrambling. The book, 50 Hikes in Chugach State Park, gives good
directions, but I will add some info:
First, I did this hike on a recent 75 degree August
day, so it was hot (south exposure).
You start on Powerline Pass Trail from Glen Alps- the first try, a few
weeks earlier, I started on foot and was burned out by the busy, flat
powerline trail for the first 3 miles. This time, I mountain biked to
the "trailhead" (it is unmarked and not real clear- again I recommend
the book over my directions). Eliminating 1-1/2 hours from the hike was
a very nice deal. I stowed my bike in the bushes. The ride back is
especially nice- almost all downhill.
At the foot of a saddle to the west (right) of
Ptarmigan Peak (a very steep looking, rocky, pyramid-like mass, the
third (?) back from Flat Top- you should
easily identify it as much more impressive than Flattop or the others
between the two) you start out on steep tundra, with no switchbacks.
Stay (as the book says) to the right of the saddle and the creek- this
keeps you on the tundra trail instead of a steeper, rocky gully with
loose scree.
After a exhausting 3/4 miles up you reach Ptarmigan
Pass (which I explored on the first trip and then decided it was to late
to try the upper peak) The pass is great- a high, flat tundra plateau
that first crosses above an easily accessible tarn lake. This looks down
the Rabbit Creek Valley if you hike to its south side. Again, follow the
books advice and traverse the tundra field to start the advance up to
the upper peak along its southwest ridge. The "trail" starts
mildly steep but quickly raises its grade, loses its definition, and
becomes increasingly gullied and loose. Stay on the most well worn paths
across the scree, on an eastward curve around the mountain as you head
up- better steps are found in the dirt along this path than the loose
rock on others. The last 1/4 mile is all gully crossing and boulder
fields. the top is really large broken rocks, with many ankle-breakers.
The top has two summits- one very peaked (on the west) the other more
flat. One has a memorial that I believe honors a long time hiker who
died falling on the rocky slopes.
Both summits had the same weird bug phenomena I have
witnessed on almost every other Chugach peak I have climbed (except Flattop?).
That is: the tallest spots have a major infestation of no-see-ums (or
flying ants?) that make the stay very short lived. Descend 20 ft, no
bugs! The view is still great, as long as you can stand the bugs- I
managed a few photos and then headed a few feet lower. You can see
Turnagain Arm and Rabbit Lake from the top. The trip down is slow and
painful- lots of tricky gullies to appreciate anew as you go down on
your rear end. From the ridge back down to Ptarmigan Pass is not bad,
and still great views. The hike back down to Powerline Pass is
relatively easy compared to the trip up- you can walk pretty quickly
down the steep tundra. As a side note I am torn on this practice- it
erodes the tundra, but the option is constant slips on loose gravel on
the well worn portions. Since the state does not seem keen on (or can not afford
to develop) switchbacks, they leave little choice
but massive slope erosion of popular trails. However, that rant said, I
think this peak is so under hiked that it is probably still okay to do
the tundra crossing. There is not much of a choice in many places. Do
the bike thing and this trail is great. The bike ride took 25 min. then
1.75 hours up, 1 hour down, 10 min bike ride back. the book says 5-8
hours, but this includes the long hikes along Powerline Pass to and from
the actual trail up to the peak.
*****
Clark Russell submitted the following:
A better option for getting to Ptarmigan
Pass would be to come up to the pass from the Rabbit Creek Valley side
of the mountain. The hike up to the pass is much easier from Rabbit
Creek Valley than it is from the Powerline Pass trail (plus, there's no
$5 parking fee to park). From the Seward Highway, take the De Armoun Rd. Exit,
and head toward the mountains. The only turn to make is a right turn at
Canyon Rd farther up in the valley. Biking up is a great idea, whether
you take the Powerline Pass trail or the Rabbit Creek Valley trail.
However, Rabbit Creek is a more technical ride than Powerline Pass. I've
biked them both.
On top of Ptarmigan, look for a plaque on a rock that has
the name of a mountaineer that died while climbing the peak, along with
the three others that died while climbing up the north face of Pioneer
during a UAA outdoor program accident a few years ago.
*****
*****
The Following was
Submitted by Louise Fode:
I would just like to add that this is not a hike to do in poor
visibility. My friend and I did this hike yesterday when low clouds
covered the mountain, and we really got turned around on the top and
nearly got ourselves into serious trouble. Fortunately, we were able to
tell which side was the south side (the side we headed up) because we
could hear the planes flying overhead.
We made some serious errors in judgement,
including not having a compass and hiking unknown territory in poor
weather. And this is even though we both knew better! So take our
advice, save this hike for a day when you can see the top and appreciate
the beautiful view -- and find your way down safely.
*****
*****
The Following was Submitted Anonymously:
I have not been up the peak in 7 or 8 years and cannot speak on the
plagues on the summit that are mentioned on your website. However I know
there was a plague last time I was up there that was placed on the
summit as a memorial to friend of mine who died on peak 2 in an
avalanche. It has been so long now I can't even be sure of the year but
I believe he died in 1990 or may have been as recent as 1992.
*****
*****
The Following was
submitted by Jean:

Difficulty: Somewhat Easy - Elevation gain of about 700 feet from
Rabbit Creek valley, but not too bad. Steep going down to Powerline
Pass, not too bad, but if you're not comfortable going down steep
slopes....
Description:
We hiked in to Ptarmigan Pass from Canyon Road on 09.20.08.
From the trailhead until you start up to
the pass is a gradual uphill grade - about 2 miles in. We started up to
the pass just before the trail began it's downhill grade to Rabbit Lake.
No real trail here - there are some paths that people start up, but they
rapidly disappear. So just eyeball a route for yourself and ease your
way up. It is about a 700' elevation gain from the trail to the pass.
Once at the top, it is a beautiful, almost surreal landscape. Once
cresting a little rise, there was Ptarmigan Tarn - just lovely.
Continuing on the hike, we descended down
the north side to Powerline Pass. Quite the decent, but much easier
going down this side, then trying to go up it. Then a few miles west on
Powerline Trail to Glen Alps trailhead where we had staged one of our
vehicles.
Great hike, about 5 hours for the entire
trip.
Warnings:
The day we hiked this trail was an end of
the summer gray day. It did make the colors jump out. We had our usual
rain gear, fleece jacket, gloves, stocking cap, water and snacks in our
packs and put it all to use at one time or another. It blew, it rained,
it snowed.
Coming down was a bit slick, so be
prepared for that and take your time.
We have not located the trail that the
various books refer to as being to the right of the creek. The map
that's always in my pack is the Chugach State Park - Chugach Mountains
from Imus Geographics which I picked up at the Map Store at APU. We also
refer to any number of hiking books that are at my place.
Earlier this summer we tried this hike
going in from the Powerline Pass side, but had to stop. We couldn't
quite locate the trail to the right (west) of the creek that is often
referred to. We tried going up near the creek itself, but it was a
pretty steep ascent so we bagged it for that day. It ends up that this
is the same route we came down yesterday.
*****
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